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It’s just a skill we have limited practice with (patching a hole here and there mostly) and it really is an art when you watch the pros. My biggest encounter to date was 5 years ago during our first bathroom gut job, but it was just doing a handful of seams. Somewhere along the line I felt my opinion starting to shift, and as we decided to take on more of this renovation ourselves, I realized this would be a good room for us to build our drywall finishing skills. There would be lots of seams to practice on and if they didn’t turn out so hot, we would have various items like baseboard, crown molding, cabinets, appliances, and backsplash tile blocking some of them – and it’s not like it’s a major gathering spot (like a kitchen or living room for example). So let’s start with our materials, most of which should be available right in the drywall section of any home improvement store: Rosin paper or some other paper to protect your floor from drops, splatters, and dust (even if it’s just sub- floor, you don’t want it to get bumpy from dried joint compound)Joint compound (i. Mud) – I used this based on reviews I read that warned against the “Ultra. Lightweight” stuff. I heard you want 1 gallon for every 1. For me that meant 4 gallons, but we ended up using closer to 5. Mud Pan. Drywall Knives in various sizes – the one pictured is a 6. Having used a drywall counter- sink bit during installation, our screws were already set into the drywall slightly (kinda dimpled in there) making it quick and easy to slop on a bit of mud and scrape it flat. There were lots of screws to cover, but Sherry took two sides along with the hallway and I got the other two and the laundry room ceiling so it went pretty fast that way. Next up was taping the joints or seams between sheets of drywall. There’s mesh tape that has an adhesive built in, which we’ve used before and found tough (if you sand too much, the mesh texture comes through easily), so we chose to use paper tape this time, which requires a bed of mud to stick to the wall. That application method was an extra step, but almost all of the pro tutorials that we watched used it, and it ended up being a lot easier to work with in our opinion (we didn’t have that mesh- showing- through issue – so it made for a smoother result). First I applied my “bedding layer” on the horizontal seams. The drywall boards taper slightly on the edges, so this whole process is meant to bridge the gap between boards and flatten the taper. Once I got a decent layer of mud applied, I dragged my 6. It takes just a soft tap for it to stick to the mud. Note: I saw some tutorials suggest wetting the tape first. I tried this once and didn’t find it any easier, just messier, so I worked with mine dry. Once lightly adhered across the seam, I dragged my 6. It helped to start in the middle of the wall and work out to one corner and then repeat that on the other side. Since the tape may drag when you first start, it helps to put a finger on it to keep it in place when you first pull your knife across it. With the tape embedded, I then used a slightly larger knife (an eight incher) to put and smooth another layer on top. By using a larger knife it helps feather out the edges so they blend more seamlessly with the wall, all while disguising the taper of the boards. Here’s my horizontal seam after my first round. It actually wasn’t that hard at all, so it had me thinking I could do this all day. The added corner element definitely made them more of a challenge. I wouldn’t rate this step as a “panic and throw things and curse the DIY Gods” undertaking, but I think a “you have to concentrate more and it takes more time” descriptor is fitting for this part (I’d call it a 6 on the DIY difficulty scale, while the flat seams are a 2). The process started off pretty much the same as the flat seams. I could even use the same tape, since it comes pre- creased for corner applications. Just like before, I applied a bedding layer first – which involved running my mud- filled knife down each side of the corner. Once both sides of each corner were covered with a fair amount of mud, I broke out my corner trowel to smooth it out. The corner trowel is a lifesaver when it comes to getting a sharp angle in the corner and smoothing both walls simultaneously. Then on went the tape with a light tap, just to keep it in place. Next I pressed the tape into the mud with another swipe of the corner trowel. Since it was hard to get my finger and the trowel in the top corner (to keep the paper from dragging), I found it sometimes helped to dip my trowel in water first to glide along the tape more smoothly. The corners ate up a lot more time than the flat seams since we had four vertical corners in the room, four horizontal corners around the ceiling, plus nine more around the doorways in the hall. But hey, at least we had 1. Note: I’ll explain in a little more detail what else was challenging about the corners in a second, complete with a video to show you what ended up working nicely, so stay with me. Oh and I thought it would be helpful to mention that my first round of mudding took longer than the 1. Sherry started a second round after 2. Once everything was dry (you can tell because the mud will be one consistent color) we put another coat on our seams, this time using a slightly larger 1. I actually watched a few more videos with tips before beginning, which seemed to help – and I even made a video to show the technique that ended up working for me in the hopes of passing it along to you guys. I didn’t let Sherry record me until my third (and final) round of mudding, just to be sure I had a good handle on it – so forgive the time jump. It’s also on a ceiling crease, but it works the same way on vertical wall corners. For those who can’t watch the video, I’ll do my best to explain it with photos. It started like I did the first time – slopping some mud on both sides of the corner with my 6. The challenge here is that you risk creating another ridge with the trowel (in the case of the photo below it would be the left corner), basically creating a vicious cycle of ridges that are left behind. But if you hold your 6. This takes some finesse, so forgive yourself if you don’t get it right away, but once it “clicked” for me it was a lot easier. After eliminating (or greatly reducing) the ridge, then I went back and did one more pass with my corner trowel, just to be safe. Here’s the room after two rounds of mudding. Fortunately the second round was much faster since (a) we weren’t taping and (b) I was getting better at those corners (cue the Rocky music, guys). After 2. 4 hours, it was sanding time. Pro Water Damage Restoration Contractor Services, Drywall And Plastering Repairs In Pittsburgh, PA (4. 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This PC Trainer simulates the behavior of the G1000 system interface and provides you with a safer environment to learn the basic operation of the system. 400 Series Simulator software version 5.01. Download (107.25 MB) View installation instructions. Notes: Windows XP Operating System required.
![]() We remove the confusion factor, showing. It's. easy and fun. Note. that Garmin states that the simulator is not. Windows Vista or Windows 7. It is the easiest. Garmin G1. 00. 0 Simulation Software Information From Max Trescott. There are several alternatives for G1. One is the Garmin G1. Garmin on CD- ROM. Microsoft Flight Simulator X, or FSX, also now includes the G1. Another is the full scale G1. Flight Training Devices available from two manufacturers (Elite Simulation, Precision Flight Controls and Frasca) which are installed in several locations in the U. S., including one locally here in the S. F. These are excellent for initial and recurrent training. The last is the Garmin 4. GPS programming in these is identical to the G1. You can also learn to operate the G1. Max Trescott's Garmin G1. CD- ROM Course. Or, you order the CD- ROM course by calling 8. The price is $9. 9. You can also view a free 5 minute sample of the CD- ROM course online. Garmin G1. 00. 0 simulator software. We have tested this software extensively, it's very inexpensive, and we recommend it with two qualifications. The G1. 00. 0 simulator software requires a reasonably powerful Windows XP computer with a graphics card, such as those available from Nvidia and ATI. Many if not most desktops computers do not have a plug- in graphics card and instead use an integrated graphics chip on the motherboard, such as an Intel graphics chip (not to be confused with an Intel microprocessor). The Garmin G1. 00. Some high- end, expensive laptops will support the software. The other criticism you'll hear of this software is that it doesn't teach you the G1. For that you'll need an instructional program, like our Max Trescott's Garmin G1. CD- ROM course. The Garmin G1. Garmin's online store (see below). It cannot be downloaded over the internet. Microsoft Flight Simulator XWe haven't tried it, but people tell us the deluxe version of Flight Simulator X, released in October, 2. Garmin G1. 00. 0. The deluxe version retails for $6. Beechcraft Baron, Cessna 1. SP and Mooney Bravo with G1. One nice feature, if you have two displays on your computer, is that you can display the PFD on one screen and the MFD on the other display (if you don't know what the PFD and MFD are, consider buying our G1. Handbook or G1. 00. CD- ROM Course). You will need a Direct. X 9 compatible video card, such as those sold by Nvidia or ATI, and we're told that the bigger the card the better, as this is a graphics intensive program. Flight Sim X does differ from the real G1. The sim autopilot is the same in all three airplanes, but in actuality, these planes use 3 different autopilots, 2) There is no FPL key for entering a flight plan; instead, Microsoft provides flight planning software that loads a flight plan into the G1. MFD does not include the many screens found in a real G1. Garmin G1. 00. 0 Flight Training Devices (simulators)These full scale cockpits that you sit in incorporate the real Garmin G1. Hence they are are very valuable for initial training and recurrent training, since virtually all of your actions are identical to what you would do in an airplane. They are ideal learning environments, since students don't need to worry about keeping the wings level and looking for traffic. Hence they are far more relaxed than they would be in an actual aircraft and it's easier for them to learn the systems. Up to 2. 0 hours toward an instrument rating can be logged in these simulators. If you'd like to train in the G1. S. F. Bay area, contact us via email. Garmin GNS 4. 30 and GNS 5. GPS Simulator Software. Programming the GPS in the G1. Garmin 4. 30 and 5. The keystrokes required are virtually identical, though you won't see the G1. G1. 00. 0's GPS. The advantage of this software is that it will run on a much wider set of Windows computers and doesn't require a graphics card. It's also free and can be downloaded over the internet. Garmin web site links for simulator software. Garmin GNS 4. 30 and GNS 5. Garmin online store for purchasing G1. Note that there are currently separate software versions available for Beechcraft, Cessna, Columbia, Diamond, Mooney and Tiger aircraft. Written by a Master CFI, this book makes it easy for you to quickly become an expert on operating and programming the G1. Bluetooth 4. 0 LE USB 2. Adapter for Windows and Linux PCs- USB- BT4. ![]() This is a widely used Bluetooth driver and many devices make us of this to ensure that their mobile phones can work. The BlueSoleil Bluetooth driver works on a number. This is a discussion on bluetooth v4.0 dongle driver within the Driver Support forums, part of the Tech Support Forum. World famous unlocking dongle and activated with official Furious-Gold PACK1, PACK2, PACK3, PACK4, PACK5, PACK6, PACK7, PACK8, PACK11 ACTIVATED. Same as the Furious. LEA: Usually this happens because the device isn’t making itself visible for pairing. A device that wants to be seen by other devices broadcasts a special radio signal that makes it visible to any other Bluetooth device nearby. This is called being “discoverable” or “visible” and is part of the Bluetooth pairing process. Sometimes a headset, headphones, or other device may not be visible for pairing either even if you’ve gone through the pairing procedure indicated in that device’s instructions. This may be because it is only allowed to pair with a single device at a time, and it is already connected to a phone, tablet, or other host device. Try disabling Bluetooth on any other devices you have previously connected your Bluetooth device to and try connecting to your computer again. Discoverable mode is turned off by default on computers and phone/tablets for security reasons. Instead, the phones/tablets and computers act only as a host device and search for other devices like keyboards or headsets that broadcast their presence instead of becoming discoverable or visible for pairing. To solve this problem with a phone/tablet to your computer, you need to make either the phone/tablet or the computer temporarily discoverable, then search for it from the other one. Below are instructions for some common devices. For devices not listed here, see the user guide or instruction manual for that device, or search for “make < my. It will remain discoverable as long as you stay on the Bluetooth menu page. Android Versions 2. Froyo and Gingerbread)Open Settings. Press Wireless & Networks. Press Bluetooth settings. If Bluetooth is not already on, touch it to turn it on. Touch Discoverable. Your phone/tablet will stay discoverable for 1. Android Versions 4. Ice Cream Sandwich, Jelly Bean, Kit. Kat)Open Settings. Slide the Bluetooth switch to the On position. Touch Bluetooth. At the top will be the name of your device and the words “Not visible to other Bluetooth devices.” Touch this to change it to “Visible to all nearby Bluetooth devices.” Touch it again after pairing with your computer to turn it off again. Android Versions 5. Lollipop), 6. x (Marshmallow), 7. Nougat)Open Settings. Tap Bluetooth. You device will remain discoverable as long as this screen is displayed. Windows 1. 0, 8. 1, 8. Press Windows Key + D to go to the Desktop. Click Bluetooth in the System Tray. Select Open Settings. Place a check next to “Allow Bluetooth devices to find this computer.” Be sure to turn this off after pairing is successful. Windows 7. Click Bluetooth in the System Tray. Select Open Settings. Place a check next to “Allow Bluetooth devices to find this computer.” Be sure to turn this off after pairing is successful. Windows XPRight- click Bluetooth in the System Tray. Select Bluetooth Configuration. Click the Accessibility tab. Place a check next to “Let other Bluetooth devices discover this computer.” Be sure to turn this off after pairing is successful. ![]() To find out which version is best for you: Right click the Computer icon on your Desktop or left click the Start Menu and go to “Control Panel“, then “System“. Look at “Properties“ or “System“ in the “System type“ area to see what operating system you have installed and proceed to select the appropriate version. Why pay for trading software? Download an award-winning platform for futures, forex & stocks. FREE advanced charting & simulator; 1000s of apps & add-ons. Data Feeder is freeware and you can use it as long as you wish, you can have stocks list up-to you don't have to pay any subscription charges to other data provider. If you’ve already signed up for eSignal, download the trading software here and get started today. 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